Right, let’s settle this one properly. Every second client who calls James Williams Carpentry asks some version of the same question: “Should I go up, or should I stay low?” It sounds like a simple choice — build a deck, sure, but which kind — until you actually stand in your backyard trying to picture it. Suddenly you’re weighing council permits against how many stubbies you can fit under a low-set deck for storage, and things get complicated fast.
I’ve built both. I’ve built decks perched three metres off a sloping block in the Adelaide Hills, and I’ve built humble little platforms sitting fifteen centimetres off the lawn in a flat Perth suburb. Both are decks. Both get used for barbecues and lazy Sunday coffees. But they are, genuinely, two different animals — different costs, different headaches, different rules, and different feels underfoot.
So let’s walk through it. No jargon, no sales pitch, just the honest pros, cons and dollar figures so you can make the call that suits your yard, not someone else’s Pinterest board.
What’s Actually the Difference?
Before we get into pros and cons, let’s define our terms, because “elevated” and “ground-level” get used loosely.
- Ground-level decks (also called low-set decks) sit close to the earth — usually anywhere from a few centimetres up to about 600mm off the ground. No handrail required in most cases, no stairs needed, and you can practically walk straight off it into the garden.
- Elevated decks (high-set decks) sit above 600mm — sometimes way above, if your block slopes hard or your house is built up on stumps. These need railings, usually need stairs, and often need engineering sign-off.
That 600mm mark isn’t just a random number I’ve picked — it’s roughly where Australian building codes start asking for handrails and a more serious look at structural safety. More on that shortly.
Pros and Cons at a Glance
Here’s the cheat sheet before we dive deeper.
| Feature | Ground-Level Deck | Elevated Deck |
| Typical cost (per m²) | $250–$450 | $450–$900+ |
| Council approval | Often exempt (check local rules) | Usually required |
| Handrails needed | No | Yes, almost always |
| Build time | Faster | Slower |
| Views | Limited | Often excellent |
| Storage underneath | Minimal | Can be significant |
| Accessibility | Great for kids, pets, elderly | Needs stairs/ramp |
| Suits sloping blocks | No | Yes |
| Maintenance | Lower (easier access, but ventilation can be an issue) | Higher (more structure, more to inspect) |
Handy table, but obviously your situation isn’t a spreadsheet. Let’s talk through the reasons people actually pick one over the other — because in my experience, it almost always comes down to one of four things.
1. Your Block’s Slope (The Non-Negotiable One)
This is the reason that doesn’t care about your Pinterest board or your budget spreadsheet. If your backyard drops away from the house — and a lot of Aussie blocks do, especially anything built into a hillside — a ground-level deck simply isn’t an option without a mountain of fill dirt and retaining walls, which usually costs more than just building up in the first place.
I had a client in the Blue Mountains whose block dropped nearly two metres from the back door to the yard. She wanted a cute low-set deck like her sister’s place in the flatlands. Wasn’t happening — not without spending a small fortune on earthworks. We built an elevated deck instead, and honestly, once she saw the view she got from being up high, she stopped mourning the low-set dream pretty quickly.
Quick gut check: stand at your back door and look at your yard. If it’s basically flat, ground-level is on the table. If it slopes more than a beer can’s height over a few metres, you’re likely looking at elevated, whether you love the idea or not.
2. Budget (Because of Course It Is)
Let’s not dance around it — elevated decks cost more. Sometimes a lot more. You’re paying for:
- Deeper footings and more substantial bearers and joists
- Handrails and balustrading (which need to meet Australian Standards)
- Stairs, which are fiddlier and pricier than they look
- Often, an engineer’s report and council approval fees
A ground-level deck, by contrast, is refreshingly simple. Less structure, fewer materials, and — critically — councils across most Australian states treat low-set decks as exempt development if they’re under a certain height and not attached to a two-storey dwelling. That means no waiting weeks for a permit, no engineer’s fees eating into your budget.
As a rough guide for an Australian backyard job, here’s what I typically see:
| Deck Type | Size | Approximate Cost (AUD) |
| Ground-level, treated pine | 20m² | $5,000–$7,000 |
| Ground-level, composite decking | 20m² | $8,000–$11,000 |
| Elevated, treated pine | 20m² | $9,000–$14,000 |
| Elevated, hardwood + glass balustrade | 20m² | $16,000–$25,000+ |
Prices vary depending on your state, site access, and how many “surprises” your soil throws up mid-build. Always get a proper on-site quote — anyone giving you an exact figure over the phone without seeing your yard is, respectfully, guessing.
3. What You Actually Want to Do With It
This one gets overlooked. People fixate on cost and slope and forget to ask: what’s this deck actually for?
Elevated decks are brilliant if you want:
- A proper view — over the fence, over the garden, out to the horizon if you’re lucky
- Storage or a workshop space underneath (I’ve built more than one blokey shed-under-deck combo)
- Separation from damp ground, which matters if your yard floods or holds water after rain
- A more dramatic, architectural look — elevated decks tend to feel like an extension of the house rather than an afterthought
Ground-level decks win if you want:
- Easy, step-free access for young kids, older parents, or a dog with dodgy hips
- A deck that flows straight into the garden, blurring the line between “inside” and “outside”
- A quicker, simpler build with less ongoing maintenance on rails and stairs
- A more relaxed, low-key aesthetic — think Sunday arvo barefoot vibes rather than “entertainer’s dream”
Neither is objectively better. It genuinely depends on whether you picture yourself hosting a sunset dinner party with sweeping views, or barefoot with a coffee, ankle-deep in the herb garden five seconds after stepping outside.
4. Safety, Rules and Long-Term Maintenance
Here’s the less glamorous reason, but arguably the most important one: what happens after the build.
Elevated decks need handrails that comply with Australian Standards (AS 1170 and the National Construction Code, broadly speaking — your builder or certifier will know the specifics for your state). They also need periodic checks on the structure — bolts, bearers, joist hangers — because gravity doesn’t forgive neglect on a high-set deck the way it does on one sitting fifteen centimetres off the ground.
Ground-level decks aren’t maintenance-free either — timber underneath can trap moisture if there’s not enough airflow, which is a fast track to rot if you’re not careful. But the consequences of something going wrong are generally lower stakes, and repairs are easier because you’re not hauling ladders and scaffolding around.
One thing I always tell clients: whichever way you go, check with your local council before you start. Rules on deck height, boundary setbacks, and when you need a permit vary between states and even between councils within the same state. What’s exempt in one LGA might need a full development application two suburbs over. It’s a five-minute phone call that can save you a very expensive headache.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need council approval for a deck in Australia? It depends on the height, your state, and your council. Many ground-level decks under 600mm–1m (rules vary by state) are exempt from formal approval, provided they meet basic setback and boundary requirements. Elevated decks almost always need approval, and often an engineer’s certification too. Always check with your local council before starting — the small delay beats a stop-work order.
Which is cheaper, an elevated or ground-level deck? Ground-level decks are almost always cheaper, generally by 30–50%, because they need less structural material, no handrails, and often no stairs. Elevated decks cost more due to deeper footings, balustrading, engineering, and council fees.
Can I build a deck myself, or do I need a carpenter? Technically, a small, simple ground-level deck is within reach for a confident DIYer with the right tools. Elevated decks, though, involve structural loads, handrail compliance, and often council-approved plans — that’s a job for a licensed carpenter or builder. Get it wrong on a high-set deck and you’re not just risking a wobbly table, you’re risking someone’s safety.
How long does it take to build a deck? A straightforward ground-level deck can often be completed in a few days to a week. Elevated decks, especially with stairs, balustrades and possible council approval delays, can take several weeks from design to completion.
Does an elevated deck add more value to my home than a ground-level one? Generally, yes — elevated decks tend to add more resale value, particularly if they capture a view or extend usable living space on a sloping block. But a well-built ground-level deck that flows nicely into a landscaped garden can be just as appealing to buyers, especially families with young kids.
So, Which One’s Right for You?
Honestly? There’s no universal winner here — just the right deck for your yard, your budget, and how you actually want to live outside. If your block slopes, the decision’s practically made for you. If it’s flat and budget’s tight, ground-level is your friend. If you’re chasing a view or extra storage, elevated might be worth the extra spend.
What I’d say to every client, and what I’ll say to you: walk your yard, think about how you’ll actually use the space in five years’ time (not just for the housewarming barbecue), and get a proper quote before committing either way.
If you’re in Australia and weighing up your options, James Williams Carpentry is happy to come have a look, talk through what’s realistic for your block, and give you an honest quote — no upselling, no jargon, just straight advice from someone who’s built plenty of both. Get in touch and let’s figure out what your backyard actually needs.